Sauntering With John Muir

"From the historic Columbia River Highway, the 176 foot Horsetail Falls can be seen." ~ photo by Lee G Young © 2014

Sometimes I wonder why I love walking in the woods so much…why, like the naturalist, John Muir, once I start following a wooded path, I could keep on going indefinitely. In his journal, the founder of the Sierra Club, Muir wrote, “I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in.” I, too, have that inner experience when I follow a natural trail, especially past majestic, stately trees and vibrant creeks, flowing into cascading waterfalls. On my 16th hike of this blog, in Oneonta Gorge, that inner inspiration was especially insightful. The gorge was formed by a series of dramatic events of nature that produced a rare geologic formation not seen anywhere else in North America. The US Forest Service has designated this area of the Columbia River Gorge, with its beautiful waterfalls and unique aquatic and woodland plants, as a special “botanical area.”

"Oneonta Gorge is the home of many rare mosses, ferns, lichens and hepatica." ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks © 2014

Indeed, hiking the Horsetail Falls Loop through the Oneonta Gorge, and trekking up to the bridge just beyond Triple Falls seemed like a “botanical paradise” to me. Loving nature the way I do, the trek through these woods almost felt “magical”. John Muir was quoted in an article in the Atlantic Monthly in 1898, “God never made an ugly landscape. All that the sun shines on is beautiful, so long as it is wild.” And the further up the trail I went, as it meandered high above the historic Columbia Highway, where I began my hike, the “wilder” it got. The energy of a busy, demanding world was left behind, as I climbed up the # 400 Trail from Ainsworth Campground to Horsetail Falls.

"Triple Falls is seen on the trail that goes up to Larch Mountain."  ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks © 2014

Stopping to photograph interesting trees and plants along the way, I found myself slowing down and thinking, that if I didn’t speed up, I might not complete my goal of getting to Triple Falls. While my overachieving ego was struggling with a wiser part of myself, I recalled another quote by John Muir, where he explained why he didn’t care for the word “hike”. The author, Albert Palmer, remembered in his writing how Muir, with his blue eyes flashing and in his Scotch accent, said “ I don’t like either the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not hike! So do you know the origin of the word “saunter”? It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the village, through which they passed, asked where they were going, they would reply, ‘A la sainte terre’, (To the Holly Land). And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.”

"A view of the footbridge that goes over Oneonta Creek." ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks © 2014

As I was thinking of his words, while enjoying this beautiful “botanical paradise”, I decided to “saunter” rather than “hike”. My perception of my personal power shifted abruptly, when I made that decision not to rush through this pristine wildness, and I found myself more fully present for a connection with this grand piece of nature. As I released my need to accomplish that perceived goal of my insatiable ego, I began to notice the exquisite beauty of the gorge even more. I saw the varied detailed shapes of the trees and leaves, marveled at the spectacular waterfalls and touched the cool rocks in the creek.

"At Oneonta Creek near Triple Falls." ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks © 2014

I even sat down for a while and “visited” with the sparkling water, as it flowed over large boulders, and watched the waterfalls, noticing that each one did indeed resemble a horse’s tail. I experienced myself as an integral part of this natural beauty, just as Muir had advised when he said, “Keep close to Nature’s heart… and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.”

"The trail takes you behind the spectacular Ponytail Falls."  by Carol E Fairbanks  © 2014

And even with the dried perspiration on my body from my climb up and down the gorge trails and my weariness after completing a nine mile hike, oh.. excuse me, I mean “saunter”, I did feel lighter, happier and maybe even, “spiritually cleaner.” Muir had promised that “Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees.” He said, “the winds will blow their own freshness into you and storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.”

"The trail overlooks the scenic Columbia River Gorge, that marks a border between Oregon and Washington.  This view looks at Washington across the river from the Oregon side.  photo by Carol E Fairbanks © 2014

As I walked to my car at the trail’s end, I experienced that peace that Muir promised, and felt immensely grateful for both my time in the woods at Oneonta Gorge and the inspiring legacy and words of John Muir. He personifies for me a love and connection to nature that sustains and nurtures me, as well as countless others. It is partly because of his walks in the woods that the woods are still here. And it’s because of the treasure of his words that I am fully here …… “sauntering” in the woods.

                                                 by Carol E Fairbanks, W.W.W.