Sauntering With John Muir

"From the historic Columbia River Highway, the 176 foot Horsetail Falls can be seen." ~ photo by Lee G Young © 2014

Sometimes I wonder why I love walking in the woods so much…why, like the naturalist, John Muir, once I start following a wooded path, I could keep on going indefinitely. In his journal, the founder of the Sierra Club, Muir wrote, “I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in.” I, too, have that inner experience when I follow a natural trail, especially past majestic, stately trees and vibrant creeks, flowing into cascading waterfalls. On my 16th hike of this blog, in Oneonta Gorge, that inner inspiration was especially insightful. The gorge was formed by a series of dramatic events of nature that produced a rare geologic formation not seen anywhere else in North America. The US Forest Service has designated this area of the Columbia River Gorge, with its beautiful waterfalls and unique aquatic and woodland plants, as a special “botanical area.”

"Oneonta Gorge is the home of many rare mosses, ferns, lichens and hepatica." ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks © 2014

Indeed, hiking the Horsetail Falls Loop through the Oneonta Gorge, and trekking up to the bridge just beyond Triple Falls seemed like a “botanical paradise” to me. Loving nature the way I do, the trek through these woods almost felt “magical”. John Muir was quoted in an article in the Atlantic Monthly in 1898, “God never made an ugly landscape. All that the sun shines on is beautiful, so long as it is wild.” And the further up the trail I went, as it meandered high above the historic Columbia Highway, where I began my hike, the “wilder” it got. The energy of a busy, demanding world was left behind, as I climbed up the # 400 Trail from Ainsworth Campground to Horsetail Falls.

"Triple Falls is seen on the trail that goes up to Larch Mountain."  ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks © 2014

Stopping to photograph interesting trees and plants along the way, I found myself slowing down and thinking, that if I didn’t speed up, I might not complete my goal of getting to Triple Falls. While my overachieving ego was struggling with a wiser part of myself, I recalled another quote by John Muir, where he explained why he didn’t care for the word “hike”. The author, Albert Palmer, remembered in his writing how Muir, with his blue eyes flashing and in his Scotch accent, said “ I don’t like either the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not hike! So do you know the origin of the word “saunter”? It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the village, through which they passed, asked where they were going, they would reply, ‘A la sainte terre’, (To the Holly Land). And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.”

"A view of the footbridge that goes over Oneonta Creek." ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks © 2014

As I was thinking of his words, while enjoying this beautiful “botanical paradise”, I decided to “saunter” rather than “hike”. My perception of my personal power shifted abruptly, when I made that decision not to rush through this pristine wildness, and I found myself more fully present for a connection with this grand piece of nature. As I released my need to accomplish that perceived goal of my insatiable ego, I began to notice the exquisite beauty of the gorge even more. I saw the varied detailed shapes of the trees and leaves, marveled at the spectacular waterfalls and touched the cool rocks in the creek.

"At Oneonta Creek near Triple Falls." ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks © 2014

I even sat down for a while and “visited” with the sparkling water, as it flowed over large boulders, and watched the waterfalls, noticing that each one did indeed resemble a horse’s tail. I experienced myself as an integral part of this natural beauty, just as Muir had advised when he said, “Keep close to Nature’s heart… and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.”

"The trail takes you behind the spectacular Ponytail Falls."  by Carol E Fairbanks  © 2014

And even with the dried perspiration on my body from my climb up and down the gorge trails and my weariness after completing a nine mile hike, oh.. excuse me, I mean “saunter”, I did feel lighter, happier and maybe even, “spiritually cleaner.” Muir had promised that “Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees.” He said, “the winds will blow their own freshness into you and storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.”

"The trail overlooks the scenic Columbia River Gorge, that marks a border between Oregon and Washington.  This view looks at Washington across the river from the Oregon side.  photo by Carol E Fairbanks © 2014

As I walked to my car at the trail’s end, I experienced that peace that Muir promised, and felt immensely grateful for both my time in the woods at Oneonta Gorge and the inspiring legacy and words of John Muir. He personifies for me a love and connection to nature that sustains and nurtures me, as well as countless others. It is partly because of his walks in the woods that the woods are still here. And it’s because of the treasure of his words that I am fully here …… “sauntering” in the woods.

                                                 by Carol E Fairbanks, W.W.W.

                                A Trek With Eagle Energy

"At the Eagle Creek Trailhead"  photo by Lee G Young, © 2014

If you want to experience things from a new perspective, any eagle knows it’s best to ascend to higher ground. If you need clarity for making choices, all eagles know that vision is enhanced by the overall pattern they can see from that upper vantage point. So if you believe you are more than you appear to be, take heart and gather “eagle” courage, as you trek up beyond the horizon of what is presently visible in your life. Yes, put on your hiking boots and grab your walking stick and head for the creek…. Eagle Creek, that is, for the 15th hike of this blog.

"The Eagle Creek Canyon, as seen from a footbridge."  photo by Carol E Fairbanks, © 2014

While I didn’t see an eagle while on my 16 mile hike on the Eagle Creek Trail in the Columbia River Gorge area, I did observe that this path definitely personifies the attributes of that majestic raptor. Described as one of Oregon’s most spectacular trails, its gradual 1200 foot ascent takes you up through a rugged canyon past half a dozen dazzling waterfalls, just like the slow flight upward of a soaring eagle. As you steadily follow this trail to higher elevations, you soon experience yourself hovering high above the creek and notice that your “vision” has become expansive, as you look toward the distant horizon. And in remembering safe practices for this journey, you need to be sure to keep an “eagle eye” on the rocky cliffside paths to maintain stability, always making sure you use the metal wire handrails imbedded in the cliffs.

"Railings add to the safety of hiking this trail."  photo by Lee G Young, © 2014

The Eagle Creek Trail is not a new trail that has been recently built for outdoor enthusiasts. It was actually built in the 1910’s to accompany the opening of the historic Columbia River Highway. It’s considered by many to be an engineering marvel, as is the physical body of the eagle. To maintain an easy grade upward on this trail through the rocky, rugged canyon, the builders had to blast ledges out of sheer cliffs. The meandering flow of Eagle Creek also required the construction of numerous foot bridges through the colossal gorge. And those daring builders even chipped a tunnel through solid rock behind the magnificent 120 foot Tunnel Falls to add to the thrill of this exciting hike.

"At Tunnel Falls on the Eagle Creek Trail." photo by Lee G Young, © 2014

Just as the behavior of the eagle demonstrates the wisdom of waiting patiently upon a solid foundation before trying to soar, so the Eagle Creek Trail gives hikers an opportunity to rely on their vision, while staying grounded on the trail as it traverses this challenging terrain. Those handrails along the rock walls are an important reminder to be fully aware, as you carefully move along those jagged rocks and look down into the canyon at the creek far below.

"Rock slides make this trail more challenging."  photo by Lee G Young, © 2014

This trail requires a willingness of each hiker to follow his vision carefully, in the midst of those challenges that present themselves. However, the eagle, who skillfully snatches opportunities as they arise, teaches us that having keen vision is only part of the creative process. The eagle, with his incredible self discipline, never wastes valuable energy, as he uses his remarkable vision to guide his skillful actions. You also can become empowered, as you imitate those eagle behaviors on this trail through strengthening your self discipline and sharpening your focus. This trail requires you to continually make choices, based on what you see, and to seize every opportunity in order to ensure a safe passage on your hike.

"A path carved out of solid rock."  photo by Lee G Young, © 2014

To complete a long trek on the Eagle Creek Trail demands considerable energy and endurance, but it also gives back to you by instilling a greater sense of personal power within. You know yourself better after hiking such a challenging trail. You believe in your abilities and trust those valuable resources that reside at your center. You have made the 1200 foot ascent up toward the “sky,” yet have stayed grounded and connected to the Earth. Like the eagle, you are now a symbol of great power - a power not used to dominate - but rather a creative power of manifesting the goodness of who you really are. A new dimension of your life unfolds, as the “eagle” in you “takes flight.” And as you “soar” above your fears and misconceptions, you become the bearer of a new, positive creative force in the world. In becoming more of your true self on this trail, you, my friend, are finding the real “treasure” of Eagle Creek Trail.

"Contemplating my "inner eagle", as I cool my feet in the creek."  photo by Carol E Fairbanks, © 2014

                                 Up From the Ashes

"The barren landscape of Mount St. Helens National Monument." ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks, 2010

Like the mythological phoenix, that rises up from its own ashes to be reborn and live once again, the presence of life at Mount St. Helens Monument continues to grow and flourish after the devastating eruption in 1980. Out of the ashes of its barren, moonscape-like destruction, diverse plants and animals have reclaimed this land as their home. The movie I saw, after hiking the Boundary Trail up to Johnstons Ridge Observatory, for my 14th hike of this blog, portrayed that dramatic natural transformation of the last thirty four years, both in landform and plant and animal life. 

The movie emphasized ways in which nature has found to repair and renew, after those wide sweeping changes of the greatest landslide yet in recorded history. It cited many examples where nature has “found opportunity in the cycle of destruction and renewal”, which is naturally inherent in all life processes.

"Indian paintbrush and lupine wildflowers grown abundantly around Coldwater Lake at Mount St Helens." ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks, 2014

The lupine wildflower was the first hardy plant to grow in the midst of that blown down forest in the blast zone. It was able to take root and blossom in the volcanic dust that covered the land after the complete destruction of this once verdant woodland. And in growing there, the lupine replenished the altered soil with nutrients, making it possible for other varieties of plants to then grow.

"An eagle perches on a hummock in the middle of Coldwater Lake."  ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks, 2014

Fish were once again discovered in the newly formed lakes, that were created dramatically by the blast. On another hike at Coldwater Lake, I spotted an eagle perched on a small island hummock in the lake, who was certainly evidence that there were ample fish to be caught there. Green moss and a variety of trees and grasses now cover what was once the lunar landscape of Mount St Helen’s violent destruction. A hydrologist and coordinator for the USGS Cascades Volcano Observatory says, “Mount St. Helens has been a master teacher for an entirely new generation of scientists.” This much-studied mountain, in its cycle of destruction and renewal, has become a world class outdoor laboratory for the study of volcanoes, ecosystems, and natural recovery. A monument scientist at Mount St. Helens, Peter Frenzen, asserts that “it’s a terrific opportunity for people to understand the forces of the earth.”

"A green landscape is seen from the Boundary Trail with the Toutle River in the distance." ~ photo by Carol E Fairbanks, 2014

In hiking the Coldwater Lake, Boundary and Hummocks Trails, I have been given an opportunity to witness this amazing process of natural regeneration first hand. During my first visit to Mt. St. Helens in 1995, when the road only went as far as the Coldwater Visitors Center and there was no Johnstons Ridge Observatory, I saw only a gray, barren landscape with no trees, except for the stumps and remains that had been blown down in the blast. On my hikes in 2007 and 2010, trees were beginning to grow and areas of green appeared, dotting some of the hillsides. Last month, in June of 2014, thirty four years after the blast, I hiked among lush ferns and tall trees that actually provided some shade! I delighted in photographing abundant wildflowers, like the Indian Paintbrush, that carpeted the area with vibrant color.

"Colorful wildflowers carpet the ridge as I hike on the Boundary Trail near Johnstons Ridge Observatory."  ~ photo by Lee G Young, 2014

The “phoenix” of Mount St. Helen has risen up from the ashes of its destruction, after reshaping the landscape with devastation. Now, life is flourishing there, revealing a new vision of diversity, while transforming the area from gray to green. Out of that sweeping loss has come diverse life and incredible beauty. Just as Mount St. Helens has demonstrated the possibilities of finding new opportunity in the midst of such widespread loss, so I feel challenged by those cycles in my life to do the same. Since we are all part of the earth, like Mt. St. Helen, those natural laws that foster the cycles of destruction and renewal govern and guide us all. Out of loss, we, too, are challenged to find opportunity. And in the midst of devastation, we are asked to manifest new growth. As we feel our anguish during those stressful cycles of life, we can look to the inspiring examples of renewal at Mt St. Helens and see that recovery is not only possible, but that those courageous efforts of regeneration are indeed supported by nature, itself.

"Hiking on the Coldwater Lake Trail."  ~ photo by Lee G Young, 2014

Surrounded by the beautiful trees and wildflowers on the trail, where there was once a landscape devoid of life, I found comfort in hiking this new vibrant habitat. Lush Sitka and red alder forests have spread from 120 new aquatic lakes, ponds and wetlands, formed by the blast, and, today, the Toutle River Valley is one of the few places in the Northwest where large tracts of alder forests can be found. This new habitat has encouraged a rapid resurgence of a wide array of amphibians, birds, insects, mammals and plants. How reassuring it is to experience an inspiring demonstration of that treasure of regeneration and renewal, seeing that which is part of everything, is indeed part of me… and you!

"Surrounded by Indian paintbrush and lupine, I hiked on the Boundary Trail on my way up to Johnstons Ridge."  ~ photo by Lee G Young, 2014